A Geezer's Guide to Ocracoke Beer
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
--Benjamin Franklin
Being married to the Ocracoke Current’s editor, I often get dragged into helping out by writing a story. Usually it involves covering some sort of meeting. Ugh! I hate going to meetings. That’s why I walked (well, sailed) away from my last regular job way back in 1978.
But sometimes, sometimes I’m assigned a topic far more palatable. Like when she approached me the other day and said, “Why don’t you write a story about the new brewery? The Current will cover expenses.” Needless to say, she didn’t have to ask twice.
I already knew enough about beer journalism to open the piece with the famous quote from Ben Franklin. But then I decided to begin my research right at my desk by going online. There I was shocked to learn that old Ben actually never said those words about beer even though virtually all beer stories start off with them! Forging bravely on, I discovered another suitable quote far more likely to be authentic. It’s from the pen of the Miami humorist Dave Barry:
“Without question the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I’ll grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention but the wheel doesn’t go nearly as well with pizza.”
So then it was time for the on-site research to begin. I knew from past experience that our county commissioner could sometimes be persuaded to hoist a pint when his busy schedule permitted so I gave him a call. His schedule permitted so we met at the brewery where we were greeted at the bar by a smiling Brooke Doane who readily served up a “flight” of our first five choices. The small glasses were arranged in a rack cleverly crafted by William Howard from an old barrel stave. The tap handles are also fashioned from old staves.
The first two beers listed on the wall were sold out. We were not too disappointed since they were both IPAs which appeared to be a bit hoppy for our aging taste buds.
As Tom put it, “I’m not happy about hoppy.”
The first on our list (going in the order they appeared on the wall) was the Mexican Chocolate. Although several years younger than me, Tom is still enough of an old curmudgeon to eschew beers flavored with fruit and candy.
“You know what I like for beer to taste like?” he said, “Beer!”
We both tasted the chocolate to be fair, but our geezer prejudices prevailed. Of the five choices on our flight we both preferred the “Sun Days” wheat beer even though it contains a hint of orange juice. While my second favorite was “La Concorde” lager, Tom’s was the “Brunch Coffee Kolsch.”
I remember reading years ago a bit of autobiography by Kurt Vonnegut in which he mentioned a relative who had been a successful brewer due to a secret ingredient that turned out to be coffee. I have since enjoyed a few coffee-ish beers but found this one to be more of a beer-flavored coffee than the other way around.
“I like it now,” Tom said, “but I’m afraid the novelty will wear off.”
In order to sample everything available we ordered a second flight. We were both pleasantly surprised by the “Milk Stout.” While most stouts tend to be a little too bitter, we agreed that this one was, as Tom put it, “a totally drinkable stout.”
That reminds me of another beer quote I ran across by Tina Fey: “In a study, scientists report that drinking beer can be good for the liver. I’m sorry. Did I say ‘scientists?’ I meant Irish people.”
The “Happy Jacq” IPA tasted, Tom said, “like a Christmas tree.” In all fairness I should point out that Tom and I were a whole generation older than most of the other customers so when all is said and done who cares what we like? The younger crowd were clearly delighted with all of the offerings.
We finished off with a pint each of our favorite and took them upstairs to sit on the upper deck and watch the sun go down over the Ocracoke Convenience Site.
Arriving home a little later I realized that I hadn’t taken enough pictures. The research would have to continue. So the following afternoon at around 6 p.m. I returned to the brewery, this time with an even older companion, Bill Monticone. He also tended to prefer the “Sun Days” beer which, Brooke had told me the day before, was probably their most popular. But I had become a little more acclimatized by then and tended to favor the “Pepperberry Saison.”
Sitting next to us at the bar was Marissa Gross who was also enjoying a glass of the Pepperberry. “I’m not much of a beer drinker,” she said, “but this is more like a fine wine.” I’m deaf in one ear and can’t hear out of the other but I heard her mention “palate” and some other wine-tasting nomenclature.
Not to mention, with 7.6% alcohol by volume, it’ll knock you on your ass.
The menu on the wall has information about each brew to help you understand what to expect. There’s the “O.G.” or original gravity (density of the beverage before fermentation starts), the “I.B.U.” or International Bitterness Units (acidity from the hops) and the “A.B.V.” or alcohol by volume. A couple of the brews mentioned “Kolsch” which I also felt the need to Google.
Returning to my computer I became surprised at how little I’ve actually known about a beverage I’ve enjoyed most of my life. Kolsch, it turns out, is a brew developed in Cologne, Germany as something of a crossover between beer and ale. I also learned that the sudden proliferation of microbreweries across our country over the past few years can be attributed to none other than President Jimmy Carter. (And we always thought it was his brother Billy who liked beer!) In 1979 Carter signed into law a bill allowing the home brewing of beer. More than 90% of microbreweries are begun by home brewers. Makes me inclined to forgive Carter for giving up the Panama Canal and getting rid of the presidential yacht Sequoia.
“All this is fine and good,” you’re probably thinking, “but where are the useful takeaways of this article?”
The 1718 Brewery has been in the works for the past few years in a massive renovation of the old Café Atlantic building. It finally opened for business on October 6th. The current hours of operation which should prevail through the winter are noon to 9-ish. It’s possible that they’ll close for the month of January, but that’s not cast in stone. While food service is expected to start “soon” there’s no telling yet exactly when.
In addition to draft servings of different sizes, you can purchase a 32 oz. “crowler” which is canned right before your eyes for $10 or a 64 oz. “growler” for $22.
Well, that’s all for now but I still have the feeling I need to do a little more on-site research…
See you there. Salud! Prost! Sante! Itadakimasu!
According to 1718's co-owner Jacqui Kalna, the brewery will be serving food from their kitchen in the spring. For now, customers are welcome to bring in carry-out meals from other eateries (Eduardo's and pizza from Jason's or Sorella's are popular choices). Over the winter, they plan to host "pop-up restaurant" nights where a local chef will commandeer the kitchen for a night of good food and good fun.
Read Emmet Temple's July 21st article about the brewery here.
1718 beer is available on tap at Ocracoke restaurants and Zillie's Island Pantry.
